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Poinsettia

Euphorbia pulcherrima

FloweringModerateModeratetoxic to pets
Good to know: The red "petals" are bracts, colored leaves. The true flowers are the tiny yellow buds in the middle, and when those drop the show is nearly over. Native to Mexico, where it's called flor de Nochebuena, the Christmas Eve flower.

Through the year 🗓️

🍂 Fall now

From early October, 14 hours of total darkness every night and bright days for 8–10 weeks, if you want color by Christmas.

❄️ Winter

In color: bright light, 60–70 °F, no drafts, and water only when the top inch dries. No feed.

🌱 Spring

When the bracts fade, cut the stems back to about 6 in and repot. Start feeding once new shoots appear.

☀️ Summer

Grow it on in bright light (outdoors in light shade is fine above 55 °F), and pinch the tips until midsummer for a bushier plant.

The details

Light & placement

Light
Bright indirect to a few hours of gentle direct sun; six or more hours of bright light keeps the bracts colored
Ideal PPFD
200–400 µmol·m⁻²·s⁻¹
Grow-light distance
12–18 in below LED

Water & feed

Watering method
Water thoroughly when the top inch feels dry, then empty the saucer or the foil sleeve within 15 minutes. More holiday poinsettias die from sitting in water trapped by that decorative foil than from anything else.
Fertilizer
None while it's in color. Balanced feed at ½ strength monthly from spring to early fall, once new growth starts.

Home & habit

Soil
Light, peat- or coir-based potting mix with perlite; pH 5.8–6.5
Humidity
Average (40–60%)
Temperature
60–70 °F; below 50 °F or a cold draft drops leaves within days
Mature size
1–2 ft in a pot (a 10 ft shrub in the tropics)
Repotting
In late spring after cutting it back, one pot size up
Propagation
Stem-tip cuttings 3–4 in long in early summer: let the milky sap stop running, dip in rooting hormone and root in moist mix.

When something looks wrong

Overwatering signs
Yellowing lower leaves, wilting while the soil is wet, stems soft at the base
Underwatering signs
Sudden wilting and leaf drop; bracts curl and fall early
Common pests
Whiteflies, fungus gnats, mealybugs, spider mites
Care notes: Treat it as a long-lasting bouquet or as a project. For color again next winter, cut it back to about 6 in in spring and grow it on in a sunny spot. Then, from about October 1, give it 14 hours of total darkness every night (a closet or a box over it) and bright days for 8–10 weeks. A single lamp or streetlight breaks the dark and stops it coloring.

Common problems 🩺

The usual suspects when Poinsettia looks unhappy. Most houseplant trouble is watering or light, not disease — see all plant problems if you are not sure which plant is the culprit.

Leaves dropping all at once

Likely cause
A cold draft, a chilly trip home from the store, or a sudden move.

What to do
Keep it at 60–70 °F, away from doors, windows and heat vents. Once the shock passes, it holds on to the leaves it has left.

Wilting while the soil is wet

Likely cause
Water trapped in the decorative foil sleeve, rotting the roots.

What to do
Remove the foil or poke holes in it, empty the saucer after watering, and let the top inch dry before the next drink.

Stays green, with no red the next winter

Likely cause
It colors up only after weeks of long, completely dark nights.

What to do
From early October, give it 14 hours of total darkness every night for 8–10 weeks. Even a lamp switched on for a minute resets the count.

Tiny white insects fly up when it's touched

Likely cause
Whiteflies, the poinsettia's signature pest.

What to do
Hang yellow sticky traps, rinse the leaf undersides, and spray insecticidal soap weekly until they're gone.

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