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Cyclamen

Cyclamen persicum

FloweringModerateModerate (winter grower)toxic to pets
Good to know: A Mediterranean native that grew up with cool, wet winters and bone-dry summers. Snap spent flower stems off at the base with a twist and it keeps pumping out butterfly-shaped blooms for months.

Through the year 🗓️

☀️ Summer now

Dormant. Stop feeding, water barely if at all, and park the tuber somewhere cool, dry and shaded.

🍂 Fall

New leaves signal wake-up: repot in fresh mix if needed, resume bottom-watering and feeding.

❄️ Winter

Peak season. Keep it cool (50s–60s °F), bright and evenly watered for the longest flower show.

🌱 Spring

Enjoy the tail end of bloom, then let watering taper naturally as leaves start to yellow toward dormancy.

The details

Light & placement

Light
Bright indirect; a cool east window is ideal, since hot direct sun shortens the bloom
Ideal PPFD
100–250 µmol·m⁻²·s⁻¹
Grow-light distance
18–24 in below LED

Water & feed

Watering method
Bottom-water: set the pot in an inch of water for 15–20 min, then drain. Water splashed on the tuber crown invites rot.
Fertilizer
Balanced feed at ½ strength, monthly while in leaf and bloom (fall–spring); none during summer dormancy.

Home & habit

Soil
Light, humus-rich mix with perlite; pH 5.5–6.5
Humidity
Average–high (50–60%)
Temperature
50–68 °F; cool rooms prolong bloom, while over 70 °F triggers early dormancy
Mature size
6–9 in tall & wide
Repotting
In late summer as new growth stirs; keep the top ⅓ of the tuber above the soil
Propagation
Seed (slow but reliable); tuber division is risky and rarely worth it for home growers.

When something looks wrong

Overwatering signs
Yellowing leaves with wet soil, a soft or moldy tuber, collapsing flower stems
Underwatering signs
Whole plant wilts dramatically flat; it usually revives after a bottom soak
Common pests
Cyclamen mites, aphids, fungus gnats, botrytis on spent blooms
Care notes: It runs on an upside-down calendar: growing and blooming fall–spring, then dying back for a summer nap. Yellowing leaves in early summer are dormancy, not death, so stop watering and store the pot cool and dry until fall.

Common problems 🩺

The usual suspects when Cyclamen looks unhappy. Most houseplant trouble is watering or light, not disease — see all plant problems if you are not sure which plant is the culprit.

Leaves yellowing and dying back in spring

Likely cause
Normal dormancy, not death. Cyclamen rest through the warm months.

What to do
Ease off water, let it die back, and keep the tuber dry and cool until fall. It returns.

Mushy stems collapsing at the base

Likely cause
Water sitting in the crown around the tuber.

What to do
Water from below, or at the soil edge — never over the top of the tuber.

Few or no blooms

Likely cause
Too warm. Cyclamen want cool rooms and stop flowering in central heating.

What to do
Move it somewhere bright and cool, ideally under 65°F, and keep it out of warm drafts.

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